Mar 27, 2011

Golan Heights - רמת הגולן

This weekend I went to רמת הגולן with Alessandra, Eugene & Rafal, it was a rather long drive for a daytrip (2-3 h) with our first stop at גמלא an ancient, peaceful jewish settlement, which was taken over by rebels fighting the roman oppressors. It has a nice view over the ים כנרת‎. The romans conquered it with ballistas and a breach in the wall.




A griffon vulture (you can still see the tag "A41" - the young ones were raised in cages close to the canyon).
I love these birds, but Bird of Preys (yeah, Klingons in Israel) have the hunting habit to hide in front of the sun - which is a pain for photographers...




An egyptian vulture.



The ancient ruins, reconquered by Israel in the war 1968...



... were reconquered by a roman girl in 2011.



Have you ever seen a caterpillar drink a drop of dew?






Then we went to Yehuvia national park and were greeted by a short-toed eagle.



The hike went through and along a wadi - i didn't bring my canyoning sandals, so alessandra, rafal and me were walking barefoot through the stony water, while eugene used his waterproof shoes to refill our supplies.



The area originates from vulcanic activity, you can see the soft rock, and hexagon formations, where the lava solidified rapidly.




When we were tired from all the hiking we went to another roman city vis-a-vis to Tiberias (I forgot the name, will insert it later). These ruins also served as fortifications during the war of 1968 - there are still warning signs for mines, bunkers made of stone (as they are illustrated in "Guerilla warfare"),...



Beautiful mosaics were hidden beneath the sand, just waiting to be discovered.




We came just in time to witness the sunset over the Kinneret.

Mar 12, 2011

עקב מזרחי Steppe Buzzard

The weather forecast was bad for this weekend - yesterday it was raining all day - i was down... (@ zwerg: the sea seawatch is wieder besser). Eugene convinced me " it can't rain everywhere" & today we were back in the negev, close to דוד בן גוריון‎ and it was יופי wonderful!



The hike started in the wadi, climbed up the plateau, past a bedouin "restaurant", circling around a few other valleys...



... smiling stones ...



... until it descends to an oasis. Atm there is not much water, but a lot of plants are growing on the shadowy side. If you look careful at the far end you will see a 'dry waterfall' on the left.



We spent some time there, after the stony desert. This experience is a real joy, there where birds singing, cousins of sparrows, swifts, and loads of שפיריות dragonflies. They kept dipping into the pool rising, circling,... Then the sun was hidden by the clouds and it became cold - and the dragonflies misjudged from time to time and dived into the pools. I fished one out, so did Eugene, and after we made the dragonflies to stars on the people magazine, we made two little girls quite happy (flowers can't compete with real dragonflies - not even in the desert).





I also saw a נשר vulture again, but it was so far up, that the pictures are not worth showing.

But on the way back I got lucky again [·_·] a shadow flickered past me, and there was a beautiful steppe bussard hiding in front of the sun, but i managed to get a couple of pics when he started circling before he took of.



להתראות

Mar 7, 2011

بدو النقب

Well - this a very controversial topic as you can imagine. The بدو النقب have always been in the desert, the israeli government built cities for them, half of them moved there, the other half still lives in the desert and builds huts out of currogated metal - to be honest some of these communities look like real settlements.
They are illegal for the government, the bedouin say its there land (of course they have no documents).
There are lot of stories, some of the bedouin are involved in smuggling (and traficking), or demand protection money, and they are said to do everything... e.g. the employees in the local "coffee to go" variant in the negev were bedouin.
A number of bedouin men serve in the israeli army, while others go to gaza to look for their brides - I guess you get the picture: "It's complicated"...






Anyway, the story I wanted to tell is from the hospitality concluding our trip - the young bedouin on the left told us about a bedouins life - as much as you can learn in half an hour - interestingly it is quite a bit.
When strangers come to the camp, they always approach the part of the tent that belongs to the men, when he comes from another direction he goes round the camp first. The reason is, that the animals are kept there, who will warn the men inside when a stranger comes.
Before entering a tent, one "coughs" (instead of a bell) - shouting "here I am" is considered inpolite.
Strangers are offered coffee, bitter as the desert (with tasty cardamon) - the cup is not full, first round is a welcome, second round ensures the guests protection by the host, third round is for pleasure. If the cup is full, the guest is not welcome...
Then chai is served (bedouin tea is something special, made by desert herbs/flowers) which tastes sweet, which should symbolize the good things that are to come.
Also interesting is the way the tents are made - the walls are made by a mix of camel hair and sheep hair, the roof is made by goat hair (goat hair got fat that insulates against water). I'm not sure if I remember correctly, but I think the western wall is always closed because of the wind, the eastern side is open, the men are in the northern part, women in the southern part (correct me if I'm wrong).



Then the work of women and men was explained. Women do everything in the house, they build the houses, they milk the animals. They make cheese, they collect wood and bring water on the way home. Men make coffee and have to stay in the tent in case a stranger comes by.
The men appreciate the work of the women, this is why the have more wives. The القرآن allows men up to four wives. We were told this has another reason:

"When a man is young he finds a bride. After a few years love is gone and only a headache remains. The man goes to the sheik and asks for help. The sheik tells him to get another wife. The man is confused - his wife is the reason for the headache. He asks again. The sheik tells him he will see. The man goes and marries another woman. His two wives start fighting, and the man has a peaceful time. After some years his wives became friends and the headache is back twice as bad. This time he already knows what to do."

We were told that bedouins follow their headaches more than the Qur'an - not far from there lived a man with 31 wives and more than 60 kids.

We became curious and asked the guide "How many wives do you have?"

He said: "I have one wife and two children. My wife is a teacher and every day on the way home from work she buys aspirin for me..."

Avdat عبدات‎ & Ben Gurion דוד בן גוריון‎

Last weekend I joined a trip by the Friendship club, which was very nice and also very informative.


ZOOM

We went to the ancient city of عبدات‎ which goes back to 7th century and was the most important city after البتراء on the incense route, both founded as stations by the الأنباط. They rose to cities due to their monopole on water (collected in well hidden cisterns) along the route through the desert.
To be honest I have no idea where to start writing about this impressive history, also I just recently read a very interesting book (which I would like to introduce another time) - I suggest you follow the links, which explain a lot, and I will just show a few pictures for your pleasure.



Today only a small part of the city can be seen. The nomads became peasants and cultivated the land, e.g. whine which was pressed and stored under stable conditions in caves.













עין עבדת







This cliff is close to a kibuz which became famous due to דוד בן גוריון‎ who decided that the future of israel would be in the desert.





The trip ended with a hospitality of بدو النقب and I'd like to tell a story about that -click-.